I Marveled At The Magnificent Mayan Murals of Bonampak

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Where Is Bonampak?

The Mayan ruins of Bonampak lie in a remote region of Chiapas, the southern-most state in Mexico. In fact, Bonampak is far enough south to be very close to the Guatemalan border.

Surrounding Bonampak is thick tropical jungle that makes up a biosphere reserve that’s administered by the Lacandon native tribe.

The nearest settlement to the ruins is the village of Lacanja Chansayab, about 2.5 km away. It’s possible to rent cabins from the Lacandon people there.

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I Went To Oaxaca, Mexico For The Day Of The Dead

What Is The Day Of The Dead?

Mexicans celebrate The Day Of The Dead ( Dia de los Muertos in Spanish ) from midnight of October 31 to November 2 each year. Despite its name the occasion is not viewed in a sombre, or morbid light. Rather it is seen as an opportunity to fondly remember, and honour, the memory of loved ones that have died.

During the festivities Mexican families visit the graves of deceased family members, or friends, to make offerings of food and to decorate them with flowers. Marigolds in particular are associated with The Day Of The Dead since they come into bloom at about the same time of year. A party atmosphere ensues with picnics, music, and often, drinking.

Also during the period of The Day Of The Dead ceremonies, Mexicans assemble elaborate altars, called ofrendas, in their houses as a way of welcoming the spirits of the dead back home.

Not all Day Of The Dead celebrations take place in private. Far from it! This is also a time of spontaneous public parties where costumed celebrants, sometimes accompanied by musicians, parade through the streets. Many locals and tourists alike get their faces painted in skull designs to show their enthusiasm. It’s all very colourful and provides plenty of chances to get some great photos.

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Barranco is Lima’s Coolest Neighbourhood

Institute of Visual Art in Barranco, Lima, Peru

Some Historic Background

Founded in 1874, Barranco began as a fashionable Pacific beach resort for Lima’s wealthiest citizens. At the time Barranco was outside of Lima and it provided a holiday escape for those who could afford it. Some of the opulent 19th century mansions built in Barranco are now in a state of disrepair but most have been repurposed as trendy bars, hip boutiques, restaurants, and, in one case, as a museum. Nineteenth century architecture contains to dominate Barranco these days.

Another remnant left over from Barranco’s illustrious past is the remains of a funicular railway that rich Limenos used to ferry themselves up and down the cliff to the beach.

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Nicaragua, 2015

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Nicaragua: Safe, Stable, And Ready To Be Discovered

Managua

Up to this point Nicaragua has managed to avoid the worst of the street gang violence and narco-terrorism afflicting some other Central American countries. But to be honest, Managua, the country’s capitol, must have some serious problems with violent crime. There are armed guards, some with body armor, in front of many businesses. Often there is two, occasionally more in the case of some large businesses. In more affluent residential neighbourhoods private security guards packing some serious ordinance seem to be in almost every driveway. Nobody would be paying for this if they didn’t feel the need. Outside of the capitol I didn’t see any gun-toting security guards aside from some inside banks.

Strangely, money changers carrying wads of Nicaraguan and US currency were a common sight on the street. They conducted business right in the open without displaying any signs of being worried about getting robbed.

On our first full day in Managua we wondered around the Malecon (ie. waterfront) of Lake Xolotlan and Ruben Dario Park. The National Palace of Culture was close by but we didn’t go inside. Not far away was a statue of Sandinista soldier holding both a machine gun and a pick-axe aloft over its head. The statue bore massive muscles and looked more like a prop advertising a Sylvester Stallone movie than a national monument. That area is as close to a center of town as any other in Managua.

About the only other people around were some workers taking down a Nativity scene of life-size mannequins and other props from a Christmas pageant that had been set up on Simon Bolivar Avenue.

We walked down Simon Bolivar Avenue away from the lakefront and took a right. We didn’t get very far before an elderly woman, realizing we were foreigners, pointed in the direction we were walking and wagged her head in a “Don’t go there” gesture. We decided to take her advice and figured it was time to hail a cab out of there. By that point we both had no doubt that Managua really was lacking in sights.

Despite being far and away the country’s largest city, Managua has next to nothing of interest to lure visitors to stay and linger. If you arrive in Nicaragua by air you will inevitably fly into Managua. Almost every visitor who does this immediately leaves town for somewhere else. Priding myself on being a contrarian, I planned on spending at least two nights in the capitol before moving on to more inviting locales.

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Cuba, 2014

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Travel To The Eastern Tip Of Cuba

After returning home from my first visit to Cuba in 2003 I often thought about going back for another visit. I had such a great time there and left with a real appreciation for the country’s people and society.

It was much less easy to hold the country’s political system in esteem. Fidel Castro brought in some very positive reforms; free health care, free schooling (including university), and a push for universal literacy. He also banned the racial segregation that his predecessor, General Batista, had instigated in order to assuage the sensibilities of American tourists from Jim Crow states in the South. But all that was half a century ago. All Fidel’s done since is deny Cubans their right to free and open governance and ensure that the economy remained mired in poverty with state planning of all industries. Politics aside, everyone I met in Cuba was personable and honest.

I had also been impressed with the fact that there were so many accomplished artists and musicians in Cuba. Their artistry enriched my memories of Cuba. It was a joy to tour through Cuban art galleries and studios and see work of genuine talent. Public performances of lively Cuban music are common and it’s always fun to stop and listen for a while.

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