Where Is Bonampak?
The Mayan ruins of Bonampak lie in a remote region of Chiapas, the southern-most state in Mexico. In fact, Bonampak is far enough south to be very close to the Guatemalan border.
Surrounding Bonampak is thick tropical jungle that makes up a biosphere reserve that’s administered by the Lacandon native tribe.
The nearest settlement to the ruins is the village of Lacanja Chansayab, about 2.5 km away. It’s possible to rent cabins from the Lacandon people there.
Why Visit Bonampak?
The historic site of Bonampak is much smaller than better known Mayan ruins such as Chichen Itza, Palenque, or Tikal. What sets Bonampak apart from more famous Mayan sites is the existence of vibrantly coloured murals that have survived into the present.
Bonampak’s remoteness in the jungle was the key to the survival of these murals. If the Spanish conquerors of Mexico had known of them they surely would have destroyed them. The Spanish did their utmost to erase all traces of Meso-American culture. This was especially true of anything pertaining to indigenous religions.
A Brief History Of Bonampak
What remains of Bonampak today dates mostly from the 8th century. This coincides with the Mayan Classic Period during which Mayan arts, culture, and technology reached their zenith.
During the Classic Period Bonampak came under the sway of the larger Mayan city state of Yaxchilan. The ruins of Yaxchilan can also be toured these days although their remoteness prevents most tourists from doing so.
For centuries after the downfall of Mayan civilization local indigenous people continued to worship at Bonampak. Despite this, the existence of Bonampak and its murals did not become known to the outside world until the 1940’s.
The Ruins Today
When approaching Bonampak you first arrive at the Gran Plaza. The Plaza is a large, open, grassy space that holds an elaborately carved stone slab portraying Chaan Muan II, the last king of Bonampak. The carving on this slab is of exquisite detail and demonstrates the degree of skill in Mayan Classic Period artistry.
From the Gran Plaza the visitor has a clear view of the Acropolis, the main complex on the site. The front of the Acropolis contains steep stone flights of stairs that lead to the top of the structure. Halfway up the Acropolis lies three stone chambers that house the murals that are the site’s main attraction. The murals are painted on the ceilings and interior walls of the three chambers.
When I visited Bonampak in November of 2021 the place was almost deserted. As I was arriving, two other visitors where making their way to the exit. For the hour or so that I explored the site I was the only person there apart from a couple of groundskeepers.